HONOLULU
-- When the early Polynesians first landed in Hawaii, about
1,000 years ago, future habitation of the islands was no doubt
assured when the newcomers came across their first waterfall.
There are lots
of waterfalls in the Islands. Some require a hike along a
woodland trail, but others are easier to reach. There are
even a couple of scenic falls in metropolitan Honolulu that
many residents have never seen.
Here is an
island-by-island wrap-up of some of Hawaii's more interesting
waterfalls:
OAHU
You can find Waikahalulu Falls virtually in Downtown Honolulu,
forming the centerpiece of Liliuokalani Gardens, named after
the last reigning monarch of Hawaii. The quiet park is hidden
at the end of narrow Waikahalulu Lane off School Street, not
far from Nuuanu Avenue.
The falls
are only about 20 feet high, but they are wide and varied
enough to be interesting. Due to the urban environment, bathing
in the bacteria-laden pool at the base is considered unsafe
today. However the falls are picturesque and often serve as
an effective background for fashion photographers.
Farther up
Nuuanu Stream, Kapena Falls has carved a swimming hole for
youngsters willing to go to some trouble to get there. Park
on the Pali Highway at the scenic point overlooking the Japanese
pagoda, wait for some friendly teenagers, and ask them to
lead you down the steep trail. You may also come across some
petroglyphs -- drawings made in stone by prehistoric Hawaiians
who presumably also enjoyed swimming and picnicking in the
same area.
One of Hawaii's
most unusual waterfalls is often visible near the crest of
the Pali Highway. The water tumbles over a nearby cliff, but
the strong prevailing trade winds generally prevent it from
falling more than a few feet before it is blown upwards and
dissipated. It's known as Upside Down Falls.
There are two well-known waterfalls in rural Oahu. A two-mile
trail from the North Shore village of Hauula leads to Sacred
Falls, and you might take sustenance from the mountain apples
and guavas along the way. The path follows a gradually narrowing
gorge then across a slippery stream to reach the 80-foot falls
and the cool plunge pool below. On Saturdays or Sundays, you'll
share the water with at least one boy scout troop.
The other
falls are part of Waimea Falls Park, also on the North Shore.
Here you have to pay for a ticket to admit you into the private
nature park with its flowers and peacocks. Included are unlimited
rides on the tram down to the 55-foot falls and the large
natural pool underneath. You can swim there on some days and
watch diving exhibitions on others.
KAUAI
Kauai has some
of the best falls in the state, although getting close to
many will require trudging through the outback or an expensive
helicopter ride. A four-mile drive through a sugar cane field
leads to an overlook of 80-foot Wailua Falls, the twin cataract
which was used in the opening scenes of TV's Fantasy Island.
Unfortunately it is impossible to descend to the stream bed
below.
You can get
a similar look-but-don't-touch view of Opaekaa Falls from
another observation point a few miles away. And a far-away
feature from the lookout at Waimea Canyon on Kauai is Waipoo
Falls, which drops 800 feet to the valley floor.
MOLOKAI
The Friendly
Island has a few dramatic falls, and all require a trip to
Halawa Valley at the eastern end of the island. Before descending
into the valley itself you have a distant view of Moaula Falls
and Olupena Falls which drop 250 and 300 feet respectively.
Later you can
begin an hour-long hike alongside the remains of ancient Hawaiian
stone fences to either of the two falls. According to legend,
a fierce lizard lives under the surface of the pool at Moaula.
To test his mood, throw a ti leaf on the water. If it sinks,
the creature is testy and you should save your swim for another
day.
You can take
a boat from Halawa along Molokai's north shore to see the
highest sea cliffs in the world. Stretching up to 3,000 feet,
the green precipices are often laced with ribbons of temporary
waterfalls. In a once-populated, now-deserted north shore
valley, Papalaua Falls drops 1,200 feet. But the tallest permanent
waterfall in the state, nearby Kahiwa Falls, has been measured
at 1,750 feet from head to toe.
MAUI
Although there
are falls more than 1,000 feet high in the rugged mountains
of West Maui, they are almost impossible to reach. Some hot-shot
helicopter pilots find tall, unnamed falls on the lower slopes
of Haleakala, an extinct volcano, and then after zooming in
on their base give their passengers a thrilling ``elevator
ride,'' ascending vertically alongside the roaring flow.
The best way
to see waterfalls on Maui is to drive the narrow, curving
highway to Hana, and then beyond. On the way, there are several
state parks with inviting waterfalls. One of the best is Puohokamoa
Falls, with good swimming and a nearby picnic table.
Then Puaa Kaa
is a tiny park featuring two picturesque waterfalls in the
midst of some colorful foliage. The paved pathway takes you
across the top of the first falls, about 25 feet above a pool
while it leads you along the stream toward the bottom of the
second, about the same height. Puaa Kaa means ``rolling pig,''
and who knows what ancient event sparked the naming of the
falls by the old Hawaiians?
After Hana,
the road passes Wailua Falls so closely you had better roll
up the windows. Then about 10 miles from the village, you'll
come across the Seven Pools of Kipahulu. Here water stairsteps
down the slope, pouring from one pool to another until reaching
the ocean. Swimming is excellent in the pools, but dangerous
in the sea below. On a quiet day there's probably no better
place on Maui for a picnic.
THE
BIG ISLAND
A few miles
north of Hilo, just off Route 19, is Akaka Falls State Park.
It features a shady, half-hour walk along a paved path fragrant
with flowers and vines. First you come across Kahuna Falls,
which plunges a mere 100 feet. But then you round the corner
to see Akaka Falls, which has a 442-foot vertical drop. You'll
need a super wide-angle lens get it all in one picture.
The Big Island's
second well-known falls is in Hilo itself. Rainbow Falls is
only 80 feet high, but it out-produces any other in the state
in sheer volume. Its average discharge per day is more than
300 million gallons.
On sunny mornings
the resulting spray from this full-force falls does indeed
result in a bright, colorful rainbow.
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