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 Hawaii Waterfalls

HONOLULU -- When the early Polynesians first landed in Hawaii, about 1,000 years ago, future habitation of the islands was no doubt assured when the newcomers came across their first waterfall.

There are lots of waterfalls in the Islands. Some require a hike along a woodland trail, but others are easier to reach. There are even a couple of scenic falls in metropolitan Honolulu that many residents have never seen.

Here is an island-by-island wrap-up of some of Hawaii's more interesting waterfalls:

OAHU
You can find Waikahalulu Falls virtually in Downtown Honolulu, forming the centerpiece of Liliuokalani Gardens, named after the last reigning monarch of Hawaii. The quiet park is hidden at the end of narrow Waikahalulu Lane off School Street, not far from Nuuanu Avenue.

The falls are only about 20 feet high, but they are wide and varied enough to be interesting. Due to the urban environment, bathing in the bacteria-laden pool at the base is considered unsafe today. However the falls are picturesque and often serve as an effective background for fashion photographers.

Farther up Nuuanu Stream, Kapena Falls has carved a swimming hole for youngsters willing to go to some trouble to get there. Park on the Pali Highway at the scenic point overlooking the Japanese pagoda, wait for some friendly teenagers, and ask them to lead you down the steep trail. You may also come across some petroglyphs -- drawings made in stone by prehistoric Hawaiians who presumably also enjoyed swimming and picnicking in the same area.

One of Hawaii's most unusual waterfalls is often visible near the crest of the Pali Highway. The water tumbles over a nearby cliff, but the strong prevailing trade winds generally prevent it from falling more than a few feet before it is blown upwards and dissipated. It's known as Upside Down Falls.

There are two well-known waterfalls in rural Oahu. A two-mile trail from the North Shore village of Hauula leads to Sacred Falls, and you might take sustenance from the mountain apples and guavas along the way. The path follows a gradually narrowing gorge then across a slippery stream to reach the 80-foot falls and the cool plunge pool below. On Saturdays or Sundays, you'll share the water with at least one boy scout troop.

The other falls are part of Waimea Falls Park, also on the North Shore. Here you have to pay for a ticket to admit you into the private nature park with its flowers and peacocks. Included are unlimited rides on the tram down to the 55-foot falls and the large natural pool underneath. You can swim there on some days and watch diving exhibitions on others.

KAUAI

Kauai has some of the best falls in the state, although getting close to many will require trudging through the outback or an expensive helicopter ride. A four-mile drive through a sugar cane field leads to an overlook of 80-foot Wailua Falls, the twin cataract which was used in the opening scenes of TV's Fantasy Island. Unfortunately it is impossible to descend to the stream bed below.

You can get a similar look-but-don't-touch view of Opaekaa Falls from another observation point a few miles away. And a far-away feature from the lookout at Waimea Canyon on Kauai is Waipoo Falls, which drops 800 feet to the valley floor.

MOLOKAI

The Friendly Island has a few dramatic falls, and all require a trip to Halawa Valley at the eastern end of the island. Before descending into the valley itself you have a distant view of Moaula Falls and Olupena Falls which drop 250 and 300 feet respectively.

Later you can begin an hour-long hike alongside the remains of ancient Hawaiian stone fences to either of the two falls. According to legend, a fierce lizard lives under the surface of the pool at Moaula. To test his mood, throw a ti leaf on the water. If it sinks, the creature is testy and you should save your swim for another day.

You can take a boat from Halawa along Molokai's north shore to see the highest sea cliffs in the world. Stretching up to 3,000 feet, the green precipices are often laced with ribbons of temporary waterfalls. In a once-populated, now-deserted north shore valley, Papalaua Falls drops 1,200 feet. But the tallest permanent waterfall in the state, nearby Kahiwa Falls, has been measured at 1,750 feet from head to toe.

MAUI

Although there are falls more than 1,000 feet high in the rugged mountains of West Maui, they are almost impossible to reach. Some hot-shot helicopter pilots find tall, unnamed falls on the lower slopes of Haleakala, an extinct volcano, and then after zooming in on their base give their passengers a thrilling ``elevator ride,'' ascending vertically alongside the roaring flow.

The best way to see waterfalls on Maui is to drive the narrow, curving highway to Hana, and then beyond. On the way, there are several state parks with inviting waterfalls. One of the best is Puohokamoa Falls, with good swimming and a nearby picnic table.

Then Puaa Kaa is a tiny park featuring two picturesque waterfalls in the midst of some colorful foliage. The paved pathway takes you across the top of the first falls, about 25 feet above a pool while it leads you along the stream toward the bottom of the second, about the same height. Puaa Kaa means ``rolling pig,'' and who knows what ancient event sparked the naming of the falls by the old Hawaiians?

After Hana, the road passes Wailua Falls so closely you had better roll up the windows. Then about 10 miles from the village, you'll come across the Seven Pools of Kipahulu. Here water stairsteps down the slope, pouring from one pool to another until reaching the ocean. Swimming is excellent in the pools, but dangerous in the sea below. On a quiet day there's probably no better place on Maui for a picnic.

THE BIG ISLAND

A few miles north of Hilo, just off Route 19, is Akaka Falls State Park. It features a shady, half-hour walk along a paved path fragrant with flowers and vines. First you come across Kahuna Falls, which plunges a mere 100 feet. But then you round the corner to see Akaka Falls, which has a 442-foot vertical drop. You'll need a super wide-angle lens get it all in one picture.

The Big Island's second well-known falls is in Hilo itself. Rainbow Falls is only 80 feet high, but it out-produces any other in the state in sheer volume. Its average discharge per day is more than 300 million gallons.

On sunny mornings the resulting spray from this full-force falls does indeed result in a bright, colorful rainbow.

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